Mauthe Lake

Went up to Mauthe Lake to get my fix of glacier landscape. Mauthe Lake is a gift of the glaciers. During the last ice age, which ended only 11,000 years ago, Wisconsin was covered by ice. Ice ages last a long time. The last ice age lasted 74,000 years, more or less. The time between ice ages is short, about 10,000 years. We are overdue for the start of a new ice age. We don’t think much about this in the age of global warming, but we should recall that we can influence but not control the really big swings.

When the last period of rapid global warming occurred, the ice rapidly retreated. Some big chunks of ice persisted, buried under the ground. When that ice melted, they became depressions called kettles and the bigger ones became lakes, like Mauthe Lake. You can see all the glacial forms in the Kettle Moraine State Forest, near Milwaukee.

The kettle is a depression often a little lake or a bog. I explained its origin above. A moraine is where the glacier stopped. They are like ripples. Hard to ride your bike up and down, as I can attest from my youthful experience. The glaciers advanced and retreated, so there are lots of ripples. The farthest advance is called a terminal moraine. Sea levels were much lower during the ice age. Long Island is mostly a terminal moraine, a big one. It was not an island during the ice age. There were rivers that ran across the tops of glaciers. Sediment accumulated in the bottoms and when the glaciers melted they dropped to ground level leaving serpentine hills. These are called eskers. Sediment also accumulated where there was a hole in the glacier or a little lake. When the glacier melted, this sediment dropped to ground forming teardrop shaped hills called drumlins. There are lots of drumlins in Jefferson and Dane Counties. Capitol Hill in Madison is a drumlin.

Part of Wisconsin was NOT covered by ice. This is the driftless areas around Lacrosse. Chrissy grew up in this region. Locally, they call the the “Coolie region,” A coolies is a long, narrow valley formed by glacial melt water. Grand Coolie in Washington State is an example of a very large coolie, formed when a giant ice dam collapsed releasing a torrent of water that scoured everything until it ran into the Pacific Ocean.

My pictures are from around Mauthe Lake. I walked around it. It was the kind of “solitude” I like. There were few people on the trail, but I could hear kids having fun in the lake in the distance. The second picture shows tamarack trees. Tamaracks are deciduous conifers. They are tolerant of bad and acidic soils, but very intolerant of shade, so they tend to grow on bad soils and in bogs where there is less competition. Picture #3 is scrub oaks. They are small, but old. Some of their size is probably due to genetics, but the soil is also little help. Picture #4 is the Milwaukee River. Mauthe Lake is not the source of the Milwaukee River, but it is close. The river runs through it. I first visited this in 1965, when I was ten years old. I was confused when I learned about the Milwaukee River. I recalled the polluted water in Milwaukee and worried that I was swimming in that. Of course, that was foolish. The water is clean up here.

Last picture shows a red pine plantation. It was planted in 1941 and has been thinned four times. I asked the ranger if they burned under the trees. No. I asked if they would be harvested. Yes but no clear cutting. So that means that the future will not include red pines on this acreage.

Grant Park forest evolution

Grant Park is a place I have been going from my whole life. My parents took me there as a kid and it used to be part of my running trail, so I have been observing it now for more than a half century. There have been many changes in the forest cover.

The natural forest is beech-maple-basswood. But they planted lots of exotic trees, so you get examples of scotch pine, Norway spruce, Norway maples, white birch and larch. Parks of the woods are really European with the species mentioned above dominating.

In the time I have known Grant Park, the birches have largely disappeared. They do not naturally reproduce in the Milwaukee area. These were not North American birches, in any case. They planted European white birch. The Scotch pine will be gone soon. They do not live that long and also will not naturally regenerate. The Norway spruce will not regenerate either, but they live a long time and will be here long after I am not. Norway maple do and are regenerating. They look much like sugar maples. You can tell the difference by their bark and more easily by their seeds. They seem to occupy the same niche as sugar maples but can be rather more successful, since they better tolerate city conditions. They are pretty, but could be considered invasive.

My first picture is one of the European forests. Nothing in the larger trees is natural. There are white pine, native to Wisconsin, but not to Milwaukee County. Most of the rest are from farther away, Norway spruce, Norway maples, Scotch pine and European white birch. The next picture shows the white birch. They will soon be no more. Picture #3 is natural forest with native species and finally is the Lake.

Grant Park South Milwaukee

Continuing on changes in Grant Park, you see a previously mowed field being left to regeneration. I noticed what I thought were red flowers, but a closer look showed that they are little maple trees. Evidently Grant Park solved the problem with deer over-population, else the deer would have killed them by now. I am a little surprised to see the maples thriving in near full sunlight. I suppose it might be harder for them later in summer and/or if it gets droughty.

An unhappy development is the near total destruction of the ash trees by the emerald ash borer. You can see a couple of dead ash trees in picture #3. Ash have an important place in the ecosystem as a pioneer tree, taking over abandoned fields. They are joined in this (in Milwaukee) by box elder and cottonwood, but each behaves a little differently. The ash often grows individually and in the open looks like a bush. The box elder forms a low branching tree and the cottonwood tends not to have many low branches at all, even when young. It is a serious loss to take out the ash.

The last picture show a loss, but a normal one. They much have had a big windstorm. I saw several broken trees. This one was a beech tree. It was rotten in the middle and the wind took it down.

Milwaukee getting around

Safe House is a cold war themed bar near downtown. I have not been there since the cold war was actually still one. Went there with my sister Chris yesterday. You still have to go in through the secret bookcase and give the secret password.

Not much has changed inside. We had the famous drink, “Spy’s demise” and looked around. The only difference I noticed was that Donald Trump is now featured on the spy wall.

It is interesting, however, to see pictures of Lenin and Felix Dzerzhinsky. Most people recognize Lenin, Felix, not so much. He was one of the most evil men ever to walk the earth. He founded the Cheka and executed tens of thousands of people. Funny how we forget. Now he is just a prop on bar wall.

Dawes Arboretum, Ohio

On way to Milwaukee along I-86, I-70 & I-65. Staying in Lafayette, IN. I had a job here for a couple of weeks. I worked at a start-up computer company. They had a great product, but it was really hard to use. After I learned to use it, the owners called me in to ask me what I thought of the product. I told them that it was great technically but too hard to use. One of the owners told me that if people were too stupid to use the product perhaps they should not buy it.

I had taken the FS exam the year before and was waiting for my security clearance. I called the FS to find out about when they would be done. To my surprise, they told me that the clearance was done and I had been offered a job. I never got the letter. They gave me a day to decide. I took the FS the next day and quit my other job.

I do not regret leaving MDBS. It has long since gone out of business. I am sure there would have been upsides in that career, but FS was special.

My pictures are from the Dawes Arboretum, which is just off I-70 Ohio. Worth the short diversion. The first picture is a nice big beech tree. Next is a cypress swamp. Bald cypress are a southern tree, not native to Ohio and will not usually reproduce there, but they will grow and thrive. The next picture is a burl on one of the cypress. The last picture is metasequoia (dawn redwood) and bald cypress. The cypress will also grow on dry (well not too dry) land. The metasequoia is native to China. It is a relative of the redwood, but with deciduous needles, like the bald cypress. The two species looks similar but are easy to tell apart because the needles and stems are clearly different. Metasequoia likes to be near water but not in it.

Our activities should be mindful and iteratively adaptive in systemic ways that lead to sustainability

Referenced article http://thelens.news/2016/06/14/more-logging-in-washington-state-could-help-restore-forest-health-say-experts
There has not been a “natural” landscape in North America since the end of the last ice age, at least if we define natural as unaffected by humans. We need to abandon the artificial idea of human-free “natural” and the pernicious idea that human intervention in nature is damaging.
Our activities should be mindful and iteratively adaptive in systemic ways that lead to sustainability. This is a higher-duty than the mere hands-off approach. There are many situations where we will indeed keep hands off, but we recognize this as a choice. We re looking for the elegant option, the one that works with natural processes.

Harvesting timber can be damaging; not harvesting can also be damaging. It is important to make the right choices in the situation and time.
A word about sustainability and profit. I hesitate to use the word profit because so many people consider it a distasteful or tawdry thing, even as they seek it. But profit is the price of survival in the human AND the natural worlds. A wolf pack cannot consistently afford to chase moose farther than the expected calorie payoff. It is profit seeking.
A forestry enterprise, as described in the article, must be profitable in the human world in order to be sustainable in the natural one, else the loggers cannot afford to keep on working. It is the way of man and nature.
All sustainable processes are profitable in the long-term in that proceeds must balance or exceed inputs. When they fail to do that, we recognize that system is dying.
We want living, growing and thriving systems, human & natural, and human-natural and so we take responsibility for the difficult and often unobvious choices. Saving trees does not save forests and may harm them. This is hard to explain, which is why it is so important that we continue to explain it.

Garden spots


Final set of pictures from yesterday’s woodland visit. As I wrote, there are too many acres for me to tend personally, so I have adopted a few particular areas of special attention. They are kind of like the gardens. I planted the bald cypress near a creek (in back of where my seat is now) I just like it. Virginia is the northern limit of bald cypress natural range. A little global warming will bring it into the fold and we will be ready.

On the other side, I planted twenty-five bur oak. The bur oak is the classic Wisconsin “oak opening” species. Their natural range includes Virginia, but I have never seen any in Brunswick County, except for mine now.

The sound of water flowing


Besides the trials and tribulations I wrote about before on the tree farm, there were some more pleasant little things. For example, I moved my chair to look at one of the creeks. You can see the better view and I put on video so that you can hear the music of the water.

 

Cutting trees saves forests

Thinning pine forests is an important management tool for healthy forests. Look at the two pictures. The stands are opposite each other and planted in 1996. The difference is that the first one was thinned in 2011. We removed 2/3 of the trees. We left the other stand as a comparison. Already you can see it is less robust.
The trees thinned went to Kapstone in Roanoke Rapids, NC, where they were turned into cardboard. You do NOT save trees when you save paper. They just grow too thickly and in the end you are left with less paper and fewer trees.

A long and hard day


It is the end of a long day. I chose yesterday to go to the farms because the day was predicted to be the nicest day of the year, low humidity, sunny high about 80 degrees. And it was the best day – weather-wise. Otherwise, not so much.

Started off great. Got up early and headed south. Got to the first place at around 9 am and worked on my longleaf pine. But then I wanted to load up a couple rocks to take home. The big one you see in the picture hurt my back. I am getting too old for this crap. But that was not the end.

I went the other farm. My task was to cut some of the vines growing into my loblolly pines. The vines are a nuisance for several reasons. We have invasive Japanese honeysuckle and wisteria. Very beautiful flowers, but they just climb to the top of the trees and the wisteria wraps around the trunks and chokes them. My other concern is fire. Fire would not destroy my pines if it stayed on the ground. Southern pines are fire adapted, as I have explained on many occasions. BUT the vines form a kind of net that catches the needles and dead branches. It provides a ladder to the crowns. The chances of fire are slim, but not zero.

Anyway, I did not get to much work. First, I got a blowout on the way up, as you can see from my picture. It took me a long time to change the tire, since my back hurt. I did a little vine cutting after, but – not to get monotonous – my back hurt. And then I had to get back to town to get a new tire.
I went to Rick’s garage in Brodnax. They did a quick job and I got a new tire. My old one was ripped up and could not be plugged. While there, I started to feel sick to my stomach.
I drove the short distance to the Brodnax farm to check into my new plantation. We planted forty-six acres: fifteen acres of longleaf and the rest loblolly. I was worried about them because of the dry April, but from what I could see the wet May has redeemed them. You can see in my picture that a lot of brush has grown to cover the land. I will have to deal with that in September. I saw healthy trees in the areas I examined but did not examine much because I started to throw up and feel really tired. This is uncommon for me and I do not know the cause. It was unpleasant and made walking around difficult. So I went back to the truck and rested for a while in anticipation of the three-hour drive back.
The drive was too much, however. My back hurt and I still felt sick and very tired. I made it only as far as Petersburg. I didn’t think it was safe to keep driving and decided that discretion was the better part of valor, so I checked into the local Holiday Inn Express. I showered off the ticks and then went right to sleep. It was a fitful sleep, but I got some rest. I woke up about 230 am. The choice, as I saw it, was to get a few more hours of that fitful sleep or take off toward home. The advantage of leaving sooner was to avoid the gridlock traffic. So I went. It was an easy drive. There is not much traffic in the early morning, although I did still hit some traffic when I got to Washington about 430 am.
It was a long day because it kind of feels like today is still part of yesterday. My back still hurts but feels better. The stomach problem was evidently only a short-term deal.
I will have to go after those vines another time.
Save