Vienna Virginia … Again with the Running

Along my habitual running trail is a neighborhood along Glyndon Street.  The little brick houses there (as above)  are disappearing. People who want to live here but dislike the current housing options have been tearing them down to build bigger and more luxurious homes. These nice homes are very different from those they displace. The people who live in them are different too. In driveways next to old houses, you find Chevy pickups holding the tools of McCain supporters. In the multicar garages of the new homes are Prius with Obama bumper stickers.

It goes deeper than that.   Whole Foods comes to displace Safeway.  Restaurant menus change from down home to ethnic fusion.  There are fewer kids playing on the streets and Virginia accent becomes less and less common in this part of Virginia.   Native Virginians have long said that you probably have to go south of the Rappahannock to get to Virginia.  That is becoming more uniformly true.  The area is gentrifying.  Lawyers and government workers are replacing the small business employees and owners.

I have mixed feelings about those things.   I am a carpetbagger myself.   I think shopping at Whole Foods is a waste of money, but my tastes run toward the gentrification.  Those houses are too big for me, but I like to look at them in the neighborhood.   (It is always better to have the cheapest house in a rich neighborhood.  You get to look at your neighbors’ houses and they get to look at yours.)  On the other hand, I have come to like many of the aspects of the neighborhood I had.   I learned to like Old Virginia.  I also don’t like the “style” of some of my new neighbors, who insist on wearing designer running suits and those tight bike pants.    

I guess on balance the change is good, but my ledger does not balance the same debits and credits as most of my neighbors.  For example, I like the density near the Metro. I think they should build high rises for residential and office space and lots of retail.  That is the only way to get “transit oriented development.”  I want my Metro area to look like Clarendon.  

Local citizens’ groups try to fight density.  Ironically, it is often the newest people leading the charge.  They moved here to escape such things and now it is following them and they want to lock the door.  I think that position is hypocritical.  We can’t expect to have a Metro stop with a low rise neighborhood around it.  All that means is more people drive more cars more often.   A Metro stop is too important an asset to be left sitting lonely.  We either build density here where commuters can use the Metro or push sprawl out onto the farms and fields in Loudon or even Harpers Ferry, from which people will commute hundreds of miles a week in their cars.  For me the choice is obvious. 

Above is part of an older Virginia suburb too.  The development is named for Stonewall Jackson and all the streets are named for his subordinate commanders or his famous campaigns.  I doubt anybody would choose those names and themes today. 

Strange the things you think about when you are running.  As I mentioned in the previous posts, running gives you a thinking opportunity.  I didn’t say it was always profound thought.

Green, Green Grass of Home

Washington is nice in springtime.  This is general Sherman near 13th St. 

I am home on R&R and Virginia and Washington are green and beautiful.   The sky is blue.  Flowers are blooming.  April is my second favorite month around here, after October.

Washington is a nice city.  It is walkable and full of parks.  I have gotten to know a lot of the city at ground level, especially the Capitol Mall.  I have seen a few changes.  Most are good.  The WWII& Korean War Memorials were good additions.  The American Indian Museum has really nice grounds.   I especially like the pond.  I made a note re the the American Indian Museum a couple years ago, if you want to see pictures.

The city around the Mall and to the East has gotten a lot better, especially the Capitol Hill area.  The bad part of town used to start at 14th Street.  Now you can go almost to the Anacostia and still be in a place that isn’t too scary.

I would not mind living around here after I retire.  The nice things re Washington is all the free “intellectual services”.  Of course, you have all the museums around the Smithsonian and the area is rich in Colonial & Civil War history not far away.   But you also have the think tanks with daily lectures and other events.  Many of them give free lunches, so they feed both body and mind.  I have fairly eclectic tastes, yet I notice some of the same people attending lectures wherever I go.   I am sure some of these guys come for the free lunch.   You could live off the fat of the land if you owned a good suit and didn’t mind sitting through lectures on various subjects.  The best breakfasts, BTW, are at AEI.  Heritage provides Subway sandwiches and very good chocolate chip cookies.

Many of the lectures are also available online, but I find I pay a lot more attention if I can see the person right there.   It is a great luxury of Washington.   Boston was like that too, of course, but not every place has that kind of intellectual infrastructure.

At had some meetings at HST and SA 44 today.  I went in early with Chrissy and walked from Federal Triangle Metro to SA 44.  On the way is the American Indian Museum.  As I walked around there, I recalled my decision to go to Iraq.

I had almost forgotten.   I talked to Chrissy about it and then talked to Jeremy.  Then I decided to go and told others.   Telling others is a good way to confirm a decision.  It makes chickening out harder.  A couple days later, I felt like chickening out.   Who doesn’t have doubts?  Now my decision to go to Iraq seems natural or even inevitable, but was not. I walked around that pond at the Indian Museum, heard the water running and the red wing blackbird singing.  Of course I knew I should go and did, but I remember thinking, “What the hell have I gone and done?” 

At the halfway point, I can say that I am really happy that I made that decision.  I am grateful for the opportunity.  It is easy to overlook what a great opportunity it is being a PRT leader.  Not many people get to do something like this and even fewer get this kind of adventure when they are past 50 years old.   I cannot say that I look forward to going back to Iraq.  The hot weather is coming and the dust never goes away, but it is a good experience.   I love working with my teammates and the Marines there.  I think my team is making a difference.  I am making a difference.  That is important to me. 

Running After the Meaning of Life

I know my title is extravagant and vainglorious, but it makes some sense to me.  I have been running regularly literally my entire adult life.   I began to run in along the lake trails at U of Wisconsin in 1977.   It was in style back then and technology had just made regular running possible.   Shoes are the key to success in running and the Nike “wafflestompers” were just coming out.   W/o good shoes, you wreck your knees and few guys my age would still be able to run with the old shoe technologies.

I don’t run for exercise alone; I would never do it on a track or treadmill and I would never – every – bowdlerize the experience with an I-Pod.  I run with nature, to be in the environment feeling the wind & sun, hearing the sounds, feeling the undulations of the topography and getting to know the place – and my place.  You cannot really get to know anyplace until you have put your feet on it and it is important to experience different seasons and moods.  Running gives you a chance to think and the movement helps you think clearly.  Running (hiking too) balances me.  I suppose there are other ways to do that, but it is hard to think of easier or more effective ones.  Running has the side benefits of good fitness and the virtue of being cheap and universally available.  You need the good shoes, so running costs around $100 a year.  Other accessories are even cheaper.  I still wear a sweatshirt that hails the 1987 Minnesota Twins championship.  I don’t doubt that I have some clothes that are older, but they don’t have dates printed on the front.  The per-use cost of these thing is vanishingly small.  Everything else is free.

I have run all over the world.  I really cannot say which is my favorite trail.  I still look back with fondness to my “original” trails through Grant and Warnimont Parks in Milwaukee and the lake trails in Madison, but Norway on Bygdoy and Brazil, through the lush woods at St. Hilaire Park also hold strong positions.  My favorite trail in Minneapolis was in Wirth Park. I loved running in Las Wolski in Krakow, with the caveat that there was significant air pollution sometimes.  I ran on the old road between Lexington and Concord in Massachusetts.   That was wonderful because of the surface of the road and all the historical buildings around it, but I only did it once.  You see, I collect running memories the way some people collect coins or beanie babies.

Washington region has lots of possibilities.   At lunchtime at work I run around the Capitol Mall.  That is the “Mr. Smith Goes to Washington” run.  You get to go past the Capitol, Whitehouse, Jefferson, Lincoln, Washington Monument Vietnam, Korea, WWII and the Smithsonian all in around a half hour.  Talk about inspiration.  The W&OD trail in Virginia follows old railroad lines, so it provides a long trail w/o too many hills.  It goes all the way from Washington to Purcerville in the Blue Ridge.  Of course, I have never run the whole way, but I have been on many segments.  The pictures are from the part of the trail nearest my house on the W&OD and the nieghborhoods around and from the Washington Mall trail.  I have been running on this trail since 1997.  

Below is a neighborhood of Vienna, Va near the trail.  I cut down along these suburban roads.  Nice houses in pretty surroundings. They completed that one just last year. They do a good job of making them fit in and seem like part of the established neighborhood.  The homes are not cheap.  Maybe less expensive now with the mortgage crisis, although I doubt this is a subprime place.

I have gotten a lot slower over the years.  I used to repeat my miles in less than six minutes. Now I feel doing them less than nine minutes is an achievement.  It still feels the same and I have a hard time believing I am moving 1/3 slower than I did before, but it has been more than thirty years.  Sometimes young punks come flying past me, but I assume they are just sprinting at the end of their runs. I have replaced my running watches several times, since I figured they all must be defective, but I have been unable to find one that records my miles at anything less.

It is funny – almost paradoxical given my other attitudes re running – that I don’t like to run w/o the watch, but I really don’t care about the times.  I know the distances along the W&OD because there are mile markers, but most of the places I run I don’t know how far I am going and I don’t try to find out.  But over 30 years of running I have gotten the idea that it is not really running w/o the clock running.  My saving trait is that I don’t write the times down and do not keep good records.  I can kind of fool myself that I am still not that slow and the self deception doesn’t cause me much distress.

Only a shallow person lives a life w/o contradictions and only a fool tries to resolve them all.

Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, How Was the Play?

In a previous post I described how my promotion ended up costing me thousands of dollars in overtime pay and that because of my promotion into the Senior Foreign Service I would make LESS money in 2008 than I would had I stayed an FS01.  I took consolation in the fact the SFS is eligible for performance pay bonuses.   I figured that my service in Iraq leading a PRT would probably deserve some of that.  Wrong again. 

The Senate approves promotions into the SFS.  Usually they do this in November but this year the Senate acted slower than usual and didn’t get around to it until January.  As a result of the late promotion, the State Department in its wisdom and following its rules that probably have never applied before did not include the normal pay raise in my promotion raise, so I lost a little money.  But it got worse. Because the promotions came too late, I am not eligible for performance pay.

In other words, everything I have done in Iraq counts for nothing as far as the Foreign Service performance is concerned.  I don’t want to complain.  I did not come to  Iraq for the career.  But it is just one thing after another.  Like most people, I appreciate recognition from my employer and I find it annoying that some of my most significant contributions as an FSO are like the tree falling in the woods with nobody around to hear it.  Beyond that a significant part of SFS compensation is devoted to performance pay.  It is supposed to encourage and reward good work.  Not being eligible for this while serving in Iraq seems a little out of place.

And there is still another permutation in this nefarious spiral.  SFS does not get the automatic annual pay raises like other Federal employees.  Our raises are based on performance and those not recommended for performance pay are not eligible for the pay raises, which means in 2009 I will have taken a de-facto pay cut by whatever the rate of inflation is this year – all this because I got promoted last year.   I love the honor of it, but price is getting higher.

 “It feels sort like the fellow they run out of town on a rail. If it wasn’t for the honor of it, I’d just as soon walk,” to quote Abraham Lincoln.

Adding insult to injury, they sent that elegantly worded letter to the wrong place and it came back to them address unknown.  I got a cryptic email asking for my home address.  A few days later it arrived in Virginia. 

Dear Mr. Matel,

With the President’s attestation of Senate confirmation, let me extend, on behalf of the Director General, warm congratulations on your promotion into the Senior Foreign Service. 

I want to make sure you are aware that you will not be eligible for senior performance pay consideration by the 2008 selection boards, as fewer than 120 days – the threshold established by regulation – will have elapsed between the January 6 effective date of your promotion and the April 15 end of the 2007-2008 rating period. 

I have long maintained that I serve the task not the master and I will certainly not let my frustration with FS personnel interfere with my responsibly to my country and my colleagues. This blog note will be the extent of my expression of anger and all of you are doing me the favor of listening to my ranting.Thank you. Tomorrow I will be back on task, but for the rest of this evening I am p*ssed off.

Maybe Best to Avoid Promotion

You should always be careful what you wish for.  I am happy that I got promoted, but it is expensive.  Because of the peculiarities of the Iraq package, my promotion is costing me almost $300 a pay period.  

Yes, I get paid that much less AFTER being promoted.  It is worse because I am figuring based on the pay w/o the raise that (almost) all Federal workers got in January.  So the bottom line is that I take get almost $300 less than I did BEFORE the promotion took effect and probably around $400 less than I would have if I got the usual raise w/o a promotion.  

Luckily the Senate was unusually dilatory about confirmng our promotions, so I didn’t get the big kick until three months after my promotion was announced.

I get paid the big bucks anyway and I know complaining will do no good, but I have to grumble. Over the course of a year, that is a significant pay cut. 

All in all, I prefer the promotion for the honor of making it to Senior FS and the promise of better things to come, but nobody can ever accuse DoS of enhancing morale of its guys in the field. We got a cable just a couple of days ago saying that we would no longer get Business Class on flights more than 14 hours, as we did when I came over.  It is hard for a medium tall oldish guy to sit in an economy class seat for more than 14 hours, but …

Maybe that retirement plan was not such a bad idea after all.   Anybody got a job for an ex-PRT leader and part time forester?

Just kidding.

And Know the Place for the First Time

Above is part of my once and future path to work.  I get off at Smithsonian and walk around 15 minutes.  Not bad.  The gravel part is like Al Asad.  Otherwise, there are few similarities.

What you do is a truer reflection of your values than what you say or even what you truly think you believe.  My pattern of choices always brings me back to the same core skills and keeps me in the FS, where my idiosyncrasies are not merely tolerated but occasionally rewarded.

When I volunteered to go to Iraq, I figured this would be my last FS assignment.  After that I could retire honorably and do it happily.  The FS has an up or out system and I thought I would be out next year.  They screwed up my plans by promoting me and leading me into more career temptation than I could resist.  My pattern of choices once again reveals my true preferences and I will be back where I began, chaining my bike to the same parking meter, running on the same Mall path and lifting weights at the same Gold’s Gym, but doing different work.  I accepted the position of director of the policy group at International Information Programs.  I will move to a new office in the same building – from director of IIP/S (speakers) to director of IIP/P (policy).  I will just make the move via a sojourn in Iraq and I am content with both the journey and the destination.  I have lots of friends there.”We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.”

TS Elliott stopped too soon.  We only know the place until we set off again.  Someday I will be finished, but not today.

Q8

I cannot load a new picture of Alex & me, but I have a very old one.  He has changed a bit (me too). 

Three times a year they open the gate and parole us inmates for regional rest breaks.  The State Department is very generous.   They drop you in Kuwait of Amman and you can go anywhere you want with the caveats that you pay for your own trip and come back a week later.

For my first break, I am going to Egypt to meet Alex and together visit the treasures of the Nile. Alex likes history and it is fun to travel with him to these sorts of places.  I still recall with great fondness the trip we made to Rome together when he was thirteen.  But the road to Egypt runs through Kuwait.

They have an enormous tent city at Ali Al Salem base and I got a nice bed, with a real mattress and blankets in a tent barracks.  I arrived aboard my C-130 just in time to miss evening chow and too early to wait for mid-rats, so I went to McDonald’s.  This is the first time I have paid for food in more than three months.  The Big Mac Meal was filling, but I did not feel that I had missed much by not having it these past months. 

A Gift of Time

AAS base is around 45 minutes from the civilian airport in Kuwait.  You go by bus and the bus terminal at the base is remarkably like bus terminals everywhere, with the exception that it lacks the little distractions like coffee shops, restaurants and newsstands.  In return, however, you get the gift of time, time for introspection, time for reading, time for just being.  Time like this is an anachronism in our scheduled and connected world.

I have the gift of time, with no deeds to do, no promises to keep.  Some might complain of boredom, but I am just “feeling groovy” and remembering a little Coleridge.

Time, Real & Imaginary

ON the wide level of a mountain’s head  
(I knew not where, but ’twas some faery place),  
Their pinions, ostrich-like, for sails outspread,  
Two lovely children run an endless race,  
      A sister and a brother!         
      This far outstripp’d the other;  
  Yet ever runs she with reverted face,  
  And looks and listens for the boy behind:  
      For he, alas! is blind!  
O’er rough and smooth with even step he pass’d,  

And knows not whether he be first or last.

I Can’t Complain

Above is my office at my last job when I ran the Worldwide Speaker Program.  I could see the Capitol from the window.  The view from my office in Iraq is not so nice. 

I have been getting lots of emails from people asking me about jobs in the Foreign Service or in Iraq.  I am probably the only FSO they know but hiring procedures are things I know not too much about.  I let HR do their job.  I came in the FS in 1984.  Things were different back then (of course, much harder.  Kids today have it easy.  When we were young …) But I can give you my opinion about careers in the FS and a webpage (www.careers.state.gov) were you can find out more.

I could tell you that I always wanted to be an FSO, but I would be lying.  My father wanted me to be a truck driver and I wanted to be a forester or maybe an archaeologist.  Becoming an FSO was more a result of serendipity than design.  I was taking a nap in the student union at the University of Wisconsin.   When I woke up, I saw a booklet called “Careers in the Foreign Service” laying on the table.  My snoring had driven away the previous owner.  Before that, I did not know there was such as thing or at least I did not know that someone like me could get in. 

FSOs join State through a written test.  It is pretty hard, but not impossible.  I wonder how some of my colleagues got in and I am sure they wonder the same about me.  You have to know about little things and about lots of things most people do not care about.  FSOs are very good at Trivial Pursuit and we can usually impress our friends when watching Jeopardy.   Skills that sell in the marketplace…?  They are useful skills for us because we are generalists.   As generalists, we do what we need to do.  They told me when I came in that my duties could range from talking to important officials to carrying luggage.  I have done both.  Sometimes the luggage job is more fun.

All joking aside, the FS has been good for me.  I have been able to do things and meet people I could never have done.  The FS taught me three languages: Portuguese, Norwegian & Polish.   It gave me a year at the Fletcher School of Law & Diplomacy and paid ME to attend school and live in New Hampshire.   I have never had a job in the FS that I did not enjoy – mostly – and that includes my current job here in Iraq, which is often uncomfortable and sometimes a little scary but tremendously rewarding.

The hardest part is the travel and living in foreign countries.  I know many readers are thinking to themselves that these are the great advantages, the very quintessence of the FS and they are certainly right.  But it is also hard.  You do not have the feeling of home and you are always an outsider, a sojourner, a stranger in a strange land (okay, I will stop with the descriptions).   When we got back to the U.S. and lived in Virginia, I realized how much I enjoy being an ordinary American citizen, a participant in the affairs of my country and community.  Diplomats are always guests, never participants and by clear definition never citizens of their host countries.   

It is the career I wanted and I thank God I woke up to find that brochure at the Student Union, but the FS is not for everybody.  After I come back from Iraq, I am thinking of retiring.  The FS is a great job, but maybe it is time to do something else.  I just don’t know.   That is the final advantage of the FS.  You can retire at 50 (with 20 years of service).  You still are young enough to find something else and you have the FS retirement to fall back on if you don’t.

Below is the American Indian Museum was a short walk from my office at SA 44.  Washington is a nice place to live too and you live there about 1/3 of your career.

FS is good work if you can get it.  At least I really can’t complain. Check out the webpage at www.careers.state.gov.   BTW – the Department did not put me up to this.   As I said, I am getting dozens of emails.  Maybe this will answer some of the questions.   

Alex’s Graduation

I am proud of my boy.

Alex graduated today. That night, he went on a road trip with his friends to a Slayer concert in East Rutherford, NJ. I am glad he went, but they planned not at all. I had to give them this map. I think their plan until that time was to just go north.

Here the graduates come into the hall. Girls in blue; boys in red. It was a beautiful day, warm but not too hot. We walked around DC near the Whitehouse after the ceremony.

Alex is happier now with the HS pressure gone. He is working at the local mulitplex and learning about the world of work. I think that going back to school will soon begin to look better.